This is another great skill-building design. The lace pattern consists of 3 simple stitches which are repeated on every row. The quirky construction makes the fabric reversible, so the fabric peeking through the keyhole openings on both sides of the scarf never show a wrong side.
Whether chunky and casual, silky and elegant, or romantically light as a feather, this scarf can complement any outfit. So, knit it short, knit it long, knit it fine, knit it thick - the design is very adjustable. Samples show Medium, Long, and Even Longer lengths!
Samples are knit in Cascade Yarns Dolce, Kid Seta and Cotton Rich DK (used double), showing a wide variety of textures, drapes and thicknesses. Flair is just 2 skeins away!
Finished Dimensions:
Medium / Long / Even Longer Scarf: approx 2" Wide x 60 / 93 / 140" Long
Other Materials: Tapestry ndl, Shawl sticks (Knitcellaneous wood leaf shawl sticks, medium and dark)
Gauge: Medium Scarf: 12 sts and 14 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st with size 13 ndls, Long Scarf: 17 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st with size 10 ndls, and Even Longer Scarf: 14 sts and 14 rows = 4" in St st with size 11 ndls or size to give gauge.
To save time, take time to check gauge.
Note: Scarf widths are all approx the same, despite gauge variances, due to some yarns having more drape (hanging more, as with cotton) and others less so, as with kid mohair.
Substitute Yarn Weight: DK (used double) or bulky / Worsted / Lace (used double) or fingering
Please Note: As of 12/4/11, the downloadable pdf and hard copy pattern versions have been updated to include photo support of the directions. New version pdfs have been sent to previous purchasers of the pdf pattern.
If you have a hard copy of the pattern, email me with your receipt, and I will email you the updated pdf version.
Text clarification follows:
The Joining Row involves a quirky little maneuver - once you get it, it will just fly forward:
Turn the work, ready to work the joining row.
Lift the very first row 1 yo hole (plus the knit edge st) and bring it across the front of the fabric and hoist it up onto the left side of the ndl holding all your sts (draping the entire fabric upwards). (If using straight ndls, hoist the yo hole over the button end of the ndl - otherwise, with circs or dpns, just slip it onto the other end of the circ or dpn.)
We're going to treat that already-knit yo/k1 from all those rows below as if it's just another yo on your ndl - which is why there's a k3tog at the end of the joining row - to keep the stitch count even.
Work the lace stitch pattern for the given # of rows, then hoist up the yo/k1 edge sts along the right edge across from the previous join.
