Dawn Brocco's Life & Design Blog

First off, if you wish to make a sweater with a different length, you'll need to determine when to begin waist shaping, so, first determine your shoulder to waist measurement. Now, figure out how many inches will be needed for the waist shaping.

I am taking in 1" each on front and back on each side = 4" total. At 5 sts/1" = 20 sts. As decreases are made in pairs on each side of the waist, that's 4 sts per decrease rnd = 5 dec rnds total. I worked 4 plain rnds in between each dec rnd, for a total of 21 rnds: (dec rnd, 4 plain rnds) 4x times, then final dec rnd.

Now add half the # of plain rnds at the waist to find the center waist. I like an inch or so of plain rnds at the waist, in this case 6 rnds. 1/2 of 6 = 3 rnds.

So, shaping rnds plus 3 plain rnds brings us to the mid waist = 24 rnds total at 6.75 rnds/1" = 3.5".

Add this # to your shoulder to waist measurement and deduct this total from your desired sweater length. *That's* how far to work your main pattern, measuring from the CO edge, before beginning the next step, the waist shaping.

I didn't want a boxy sweater, as in the traditional Fana sweater. However, if *you* want it straight, please do so and ignore all shaping in this segment - just continue in established pattern, until you are at the underarms.

How long is that?

Well, for my 41" circ sweater, I want an armhole opening of about 8.5". So, subtract 8.5" from your total desired length and work to that point, for *this size.*. As I'm aiming for a 22" length, that would mean 13.5" from the CO edge.

For other sizes, figure about 40-45% of your body circ for your armhole depth. My 8.5" armhole depth is 42% of my circ - not too snug, but not overly deep either.

If I was using a thinner yarn, I might do a less deep armhole (about 40%), and if I was using a thicker yarn, I might do a deeper armhole (45%), as yarn thickness takes up a varying amount of *interior* space in your sweater. If you plan on wearing a blouse or knit top underneath, that also requires a bit more room in your sweater, for a comfortable fit.

Armhole depth can also vary with the thickness of your upper arm, AND how much room *you* prefer in your sleeves - some people like sleeves to be snug, while others like 'em loose! As Elizabeth Zimmermann used to say, Measure your favorite sweater! I would add, *in a similar weight fabric.*

The sleeve style? Not a drop shoulder, like the traditional Fana, but an inset square armhole. The shape is still square, not curved, but inset a couple inches to move the sleeve *seam* closer to the natural shoulder line.

I like this sleeve style a lot, as it's still easy to do, but gives a nicer fit than a drop shoulder. But I digress! First the waist shaping:


Dec Rnd: (Patt 1 st, ssk, patt 96 sts, k2tog, patt 1 st), place side marker; rep within ( ) once more = 4 sts decreased.

Patt 4 rnds even.

Dec Rnd: * Patt 1 st, ssk, patt to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, patt 1 st; rep from * once more.

Rep last 5 rnds 3x MORE = 184 sts rem.

Patt 6 rnds even.

Now the increasing:


Inc Rnd: (Patt 1 st, M1, patt to 1 st before marker, M1, patt 1), slip marker; rep between ( ) once more = 4 sts increased.

Note: Increase in pattern. That is, after patterning the first st, look at the patt sequence coming up, and make the st *in the color* needed next.

Patt 4 rnds even.

Rep last 5 rnds 3x more, then rep Inc Rnd = original 204 sts. The sweater is now approx 10.5 from CO edge.

Note: I've given the directions in the usual manner, that is, with the shaping beginning at the start of the rnd and ending at the end of the rnd.

Well, how else would it be done, you ask!

If you find, like I do, that your decs and ins do not line up, and it bothers you, as it does me, then work them this way:

Begin your shaping at the end of the previous rnd! Then work the shaping at the beg of the next rnd and at the opposite side, then do not work another dec or inc at the end of the rnd - it's been done already.

It may take awhile to get accustomed to beginning your shaping at the end of the previous rnd. Can't tell you HOW many times I get to the beg of the rnd and have to tink back a few sts to work that end-of-rnd dec! But, it IS an option.

Work even for 19 rnds (approx 3") = approx 13.5" from CO edge.

Coming - Part 3: Neck and Underarm Steeks, V-Neck Shaping